Thursday 20 September 2012

Moscow 10.09.12-12.09.12

First I must apologise for how long it has taken me to update the blog, I have been distracted the last few days with the places we visited just taking it all in. Moscow the first of the final big two cities in this massive country, arriving in the late afternoon we met up with Katcha our honcho who took us out for a nice dinner and a wander around the city. I must admit there are some very attractive men in this city, it's like the handsome city of Russia and all the women trying to pull in the men with their sky high heels and tiny outfits. As Katcha told us, the idea in Moscow is to find yourself a man and even after you have there is no need to have a family straight away..career always comes first. I did notice there were so few young families or even children running around it's all about career, success and finding your equal partner to share your dreams.
My first experience in a hostel, felt a little babied by the girls telling me I HAD to lock everything as if I didn't know that already (rewind to my dad's own words, repeating themselves). I was quite comfortable if not a little shy about meeting all these new people who were happy to just chatter away with you about where you have been and where they have been and were everyone was going to next. In true Jenny fashion I kept mostly to myself and then slowly became more comfortable with my surroundings, we were sharing with two Brazillian boys, one of which was a CHRONIC snorer...the trick was to get into bed before he did and make sure you were asleep before him. Though Bec struggled being right next to him I think, Ipod blasting and we could all hear it over his snores, really comfy beds though.

Katcha came and picked us up to head off to the museum of Russian history close to the hostel, we were able to make our way through understanding most of what we were looking at with the help of English museum cards for each room. I really wish we had learned Russian history at school it's not the nicest history but it certainly is fascinating, especially to see in person. The paintings in the museum were quite harrowing and dark, especially the ones depicting the bloody Sunday rally and the countless casualties as a result of that demonstration. Seeing the way that the Russian people following the revolution began to take hold and get back on their feet, gaining back all the freedom that was withheld. The way they moved on from what was a very depressing part of their history and made a true name of honour for their country with the development of the Russian space program, putting Russia back on the map for all the right reasons.

After lunch we went to the area near the Kremlin to visit the church of spilt blood which was quite moving, the area around it was so full of tourists from everywhere but we managed to squeeze through ok. What an incredible design...so beautiful, the colours, the shapes, the style. A building that to me seems completely out of place when you consider that this nation of people were prevented from free thinking creativity for such a long time. Tonight we attended a piano concerto made up of two sisters who were absolutely incredible...I had chills the whole time, they played together on one piano and then separately on grand pianos. When they played you could see the expression on their faces, the way they almost contorted their bodies as the music ran through them to their fingertips, absolutely inspirational to watch  and feel the chords vibrate through the room. I wish I had taken the time to learn an instrument or even had the patience to learn now, but I guess I do not have the time anymore but you never know :)

Another beautiful Moscow day and without Katcha today we are left to fend for ourselves, Alison and Talitha went off to do their own thing and so did Bec, Aimee and I...first order of business, go the completely wrong direction and get lost. Of course we went a lot further before we cared to admit that we were lost, Bec asked a young man who looked like he was off to work where we should go. This lovely guy pointed us in the right direction but then ended up guiding us almost all the way to the Kremlin where we were looking for in the first place, in the complete opposite direction. He was so nice, turns out he was job hunting and lived two hours out of Moscow looking to find a job and move to the city as an English teacher, another stroke of good fortune.
By this time we had used up a good hour searching for the one place we had thought we knew how to get to. Braving the McDonalds Kremlin we had a really quick lunch and a stroll around the outer gardens of the Kremlin before heading down to the oldest church in Moscow. Today I was definitely the winger, I was so tired and had had enough of strolling backwards and forwards on a rushed schedule for the day....I had my cranky pants on indeed! I tried to suck it up and we found our way to the church,  I have to say it was worth it in the end as it was stunning especially with the sun setting in the background, there was a beautiful big bridge that stretched over the river running through the city. Making our way back to the hostel we took the Metro which we thought we knew exactly were to
go and once again our 6th sense failed :/ Looking at our little metro map we knew where we were we just needed to get to our final spot on the station, a man stopped and asked us where we were going, we told him and he said, "follow me" in the typical Russian tone and led us to the station we needed as he was heading the same way. So many people have told us that Russians are not friendly, including the guide books but they could not be further from the truth, every person we have come across has been so beautifully kind and helpful.

Our final night in Moscow, what else...the Russian Ballet!!!!! We got all dolled up in our 'fancy' outfits and journeyed back to the Kremlin with Talitha and Alison as well to the Kremlin Theatre, of course this time we had no trouble making our way there and with time to spare took our seats. Ok, so being the tallest in the group I wasn't surprised when a monstrous man sat in front of me...great! Not only that but during the entire first act he was swaying from side to side as if he had any trouble seeing, I think he was probably falling asleep. For the second part I enjoyed it much more because I moved to a better seat that was free, with no giant head in the way :)
The ballet was sleeping beauty and I was enjoying it as my first ballet, though it did go a little bit strangely towards the end...after sleeping beauty had been awoken and the evil queen defeated there was a ball, during this 3rd hour of ballet every single character had a 30 second dance solo and this included Red riding Hood and the Wolf? Two white striped cats chasing each other? Sinbad (or similar) and his princess? Yep we were lost after that. One thing we noticed was there was no appropriate time to clap, Russian's clap whenever they want at whatever they want. This was prevalent in the piano concert as well, someone jumps everyone clap..it seemed so awkward especially with one dancer's family in the theatre screaming "BRAVO!!!" without her actually doing anything apart from walking on stage and taking her place. Though all that in mind I really did enjoy myself  at the Russian Ballet.

We were leaving for Saint Petersburg tonight on the train at 12:50am so packed up at the hostel after the ballet and found the driver we organised earlier, not an actual taxi driver but he drives all the hostel travellers in his tiny LADA all covered in stickers from around the world and signatures of fellow travellers on the back of the headrests in his car (which naturally we signed). Squished into the back of Aleksi's LADA we drove to the train station, Aleksi was definitely a character, trying to find a music channel we all liked and singing along. Aleksi was a big help though getting us onto the platform and helping us with the tickets.

Finally the last stop in Russia is one sleep away...St Petersburg here we come!!!

Friday 14 September 2012

Suzdal 9.09.12-10.09.12

Hmm getting off the train at 5:30am  *yawns* hooray were in Murom (where the heck is that?), luckily our honcho Nick was waiting and we jumped into the van to for a three hour nap to Suzdal.

Wow, Suzdal what a random place, the ancient capital of Russia. Completely frozen in post soviet period, a really quiet place though still frequented by tourists. We arrived at our hostel; Gozilla's, which was really swanky for a hostel with all the required mod cons you would want though of course Aimee's wifi still didn't work...no surprises there. 
Much needed shower, hot and excellent water pressure...then off to find brekkie. Nick took us to a little cafe with tiny portions sizes, I don't think they were prepared for our Aussie appetites...I had a hot sandwich for my first course which was the closest I had had to a toastie with ham, cheese and tomato. For our second course the girls tried to order a hot sandwich though after our first course they were out of cheese!!! With Nick still nursing his first course which was tiny we all finished number three feeling pretty damn satisfied. 

Heading off to explore Suzdal which has around 28 or more churches in this tiny town from the lookout you can see almost the entire city and all of the turrets and points from the churches. The colours of Russia still amaze me, I imagine the houses to be all brown and depressing but even in Suzdal this almost untouched city the houses are pink, yellow and bright blue, even mint green. Wood was certainly the cheapest material at the time these houses were built and at -20 degrees in winter they still push through and survive.....plucky little houses. 
Every city that we visit in Russia has a different feel, a different emotion to represent it's part in history....for me I felt like it was a sad sort of place but with complete determination behind it. Trying still to pick itself back up after being somewhat left behind as it was.
We visited the little markets where the Babooshkas were selling their produce...amazing apples!! The girls bought their Ushankas and of course the one that I wanted was 3000 rubles...NO WAY! But they have funny slippers to buy in the shape of army tanks, hand painted slippers that have a seperate plastic bottom so that you can wear them outside, I bought my Matrosha doll for AUD$8...BARGAIN! We went to a beer house and taste tested some tasty honey wine after 10 different types some of us stumbled and giggled our way back to the hostel for naps. For dinner we found this funny little place that had two very different menus, more European dishes and then Sushi? Nick said that Russia has only really had Sushi for the last 2 years roughly and so it's still a very new concept for a lot of people. 
I should mention that Suzdal is definitely the coldest place that we have been weather wise, 10 degrees, wind and rain...brrrrrrr but also has the comfiest beds and heated floor tiles :) 

The following morning we visited the oldest church in Suzdal and enjoyed the even more freezing winds that plagued us out in the open....it made for some pretty interesting photography though as you will see. Today we headed to Moscow, ready for a new round of culture shock. I have no idea what to expect following the small cities we have visited, but I'm excited to see what the legendary city has to offer.

























Thursday 13 September 2012

Kazan 7.09.12-8.09.12

We arrived here in the afternoon and met Kate...have to say I think we were pretty out of it that night, still rocking as we were walking along or sitting. 
We knew next to nothing about this city apart from the 1.5 pages in one guide book between us.

Kazan is a new city, according to Kate they are rebuilding it as a third capital of Russian to be known as well as Moscow or Saint Petersburg. As Kazan is the Republic of Tartarstan, Russia of course we ate some Tartar food for dinner which included a famous dessert 'Chak Chak' which is a fried honey cake, but to me it tasted like stale rice crispy squares with honey.
The next morning we visited  the Kremlin of Kazan, before I start on this site less than one page on this city and I truly believe it deserves an entire chapter. Kazan is a beautiful place and as it happens turned out to be one of my most favourite places, it's a quiet city but it is also completely busy with all the changes and new buildings.
The next morning we visited  the Kremlin of Kazan, built by Ivan the Terrible on the ruins of the former castle of Kazan khans and has since been declared a world heritage site.
We had a lovely wander around and headed out to our next destination which was a monastery a little bit out of town, Kate's favourite place in Kazan. Aimee and Bec decided to boycott and go shopping instead so it was just Talitha, Alison, Kate and I. We headed out to the forest region outside of the city by bus and ended up the most peculiar and beautiful place. It was like a little town almost, with brightly coloured gardens and buildings we visited the oldest church in the area which apparently had the most incredible acoustics....Kate was right. She asked the priests to sing for us...
I cannot accurately describe the feeling I had but the sound of their voices just reverberated everywhere and shot straight through me, the most glorius voices in complete harmony. Every change in pitch and tone was crystal clear and it just ran through me, when they were finished I felt like I was glowing from the inside out.
I have found something quite beautiful about Russian Sunday service, they say their prayers they dedicate themselves and take their time however there is no actual service and the church is completely silent apart from the shuffling of little Babooshka feet. Walking into one of these places you can literally feel calmness wash over you, they have gone to extreme lengths to make sure that everyone can celebrate their religion however they wish...just imagining that once upon a time these churches and cathedrals were closed and people were worshipping in secret. Even Kate's grandmother during that time was baptising children in secret helping people continue to celebrate in a time when they really needed it.
Walking through that little place was just beautiful, it was definitely one of the most beautiful places I have been on this trip so far. Going back we stopped for the best Shasliks I have ever had in my life followed by the best bread I have ever had in my life!!!!! *mouth is currently watering just thinking about this*
This evening we had some delicious fruit blended tea and homemade cakes in a little romantic cafe in the city centre, they were absolutely divine!!! The man who owns the little cafe and makes the cakes is always there and is apparently all dressed up all the time looking dapper. We  visited the Kremlin again just so we could see it at night before we had to leave for Suzdal on the train, it's even more beautiful at night if that's even possible.
I'm very sad to say goodbye to Kazan and to our beautiful Kate.....it's a place I would visit again later on if I had the chance again
To Suzdal......





Look Mum we match!!!!!!
















Friday 7 September 2012

Onto Kazan 4.09.12-7.09.12

Well being on a train for days sure does give you the opportunity to think about things. There's something extremely romantic about being on a train, something to do with watching the world go by out the window...even more romantic is having rain pour outside as your toasty inside nuzzled into your blanket. Being rocked constantly is also a plus of being on the train, easy to get to sleep though we had to relive the first five hours because we immediately switched to Moscow time which is now behind Sydney as soon as we got on the train.
So something I was meaning to write about was our ever growing list of first world problems.
1. Lack of constant decent wifi access
2. Finding 'non-whitening' skin products-face wash and moisturiser
3. Explaining cold and flu symptoms in any language
4. Non sandpaper toilet paper
5. Drop hole toilets
6. Train toilets.....ewww
7. Non- English Menus
8. Lack of Facebook notifications (Talitha's nightmare)
9. Lack of phone reception
hmmm there's a lot more but I cannot think of any right now...
Arriving in Kazan this afternoon to hopefully ditch the cabin fever that I'm now convinced that I have.
I've avoided the dining car parties both all nights on the train, not by choice but because by seven thirty I'm ready for bed! Train lag could potentially be worse than jet lag only because your not just dumped in a new time zone and forced to adjust, we are told that we have to put our watches back 4 hours and then have to relive that 4 hours over again.....the days are very long. Thank goodness for reading, movies and music.......battery power!!!!!

One lovely little note I forgot to mention...Adiesya...a little girl who through sheer determination wanted to outdo on all fronts, burping, screaming, running and gross habits however she was the most adorable little thing running up and down the cabin, we even managed to speak some Russian with her....she was so sweet (sometimes). She would be in our cabin and you would just hear "ADIEYSA!!!" from her mum a couple of doors down. I think my favourite memory of her was when she just walked into our cabin door and we were mucking around making different noises she plugs her ears and lets out an almighty scream, one of those super high pitched ones. We were in hysterics and then you hear "ADIEYSA!!!" from down the corridor, she runs out down the hall and then silence for a moment followed by a second almighty scream at the top of her lungs......cheeky girl :)





Lake Baikal 3.09.12

An extremely lazy day on the lake for the three of us....we mulled around all day relaxing and doing what we had to get done. It was nice spending the day in our little chalet watching the world go by through our window, basically just watching the sun make it's way across the sky into a glorious sunset. The sun has been so warm today, it's either too hot in the sun or too cold in the shade.

Packed up tonight using the last of the internet access for a few days....another first world problem.

10 minute supermarket mayhem and then onto the train for 3 days....

Monday 3 September 2012

Revelation

Just for all those reading finally have figured out how to use the Picasa program on my laptop properly and so prepare yourselves for a lot of photos on new and old posts.

Cheers all :D

Lake Baikal 3.09.12

This morning we woke up from our little comfy beds and went down to Russian porridge and tea...not really to my taste but not bad. I couldn't be more at home here in Russia though the language barrier can be difficult generally they appreciate the effort we put in.
We decided to take a 3 hour cruise on the lake today, we roped in Bart from the other tour group to give him a break from the over 40's. The girls and I bought some cheese, salami and tomatoes and had a little lunch on board.
After an hour we docked at a look out which also coincidentally we had actually passed a couple of nights before on the train as the tracks led straight through it to Irkutsk. Talitha and Bart braved the water and jumped into the freezing water from the shore.....they looked so cold!!!!!! We just dipped our feet in and were like NOPE!!! NOT HAPPENING!!!!!
Soaking up the warm sunlight we just relaxed for a while before getting back o the boat, it was really choppy getting back so it's definitely a good thing that we did not sit at the front or we all would have potentially gone flying into Lake Baikal for an involuntary swim.
This evening we went down to the 'beach' (big rocks) and hired a little hut to sit, have dinner and watch the sun go down together. Of course we had to feed the stray dogs that followed along and sat with us in the sunset....beautiful puppy, she followed us home and ended up waiting for us the next morning she was still there tail wagging with a goofy smile. Apparently she is a regular follower and even goes on hikes with visitors up into the forest.....
We enjoyed a quiet night in and low and behold amazingly we have all found that we have more room in our bags......master class packing skills apparently we have picked up along the way :) Yay more room to buy things!!!!!!
The sunlight dips out of sight from the mountains.......so glad we have two full days here, it's a stunning place.



Our New Best Mate





Lake Baikal